CT Race Worx Can-Am Maverick X3 Rear Radius Rods Reinforcement Plate
Protect the critical rear suspension anchor points on the Can-Am Maverick X3 with the CT Race Worx Rear Radius Rods Reinforcement Plate. High-speed off-road driving exerts massive stress on the rear chassis, often leading to unwanted flex, tearing, or catastrophic frame damage over time. This heavy-duty 4130 chromoly upgrade solves this vulnerability by replacing weak factory sheet metal to provide an incredibly rigid foundation. Whether patching up an already battered chassis or bulletproofing a brand-new machine, this crucial modification guarantees the rear end stays true and strong under the harshest desert or trail conditions.
Engineered using highly accurate 3D scans, this kit ensures perfect conformity to factory geometry, guaranteeing zero radius rod interference throughout the full suspension stroke. The system utilizes a sophisticated dual-layer approach, featuring one plate that mounts beneath the transmission and a secondary plate that welds directly inside the chassis to create a deeply interconnected structure. Because these chromoly components completely eliminate the flex found in stock parts, builders are highly encouraged to use a rigid billet pull plate as a fixture during the precise welding and cooling process. Complete with pre-cut holes ready for aftermarket race plates, this setup is the ultimate solution for locking down the X3's rear geometry.
Features
- Constructed from heavy-duty 4130 chromoly
- Prevents rear chassis flex and damage
- Exact geometry eliminates suspension travel interference
- Features external and internal transmission mounts
- Requires a rigid fixture during welding
- Pre-cut holes for aftermarket race plates
Fitment
- Can-Am Maverick X3
Notes
- Billet Pull Plate and Spacers are not included and sold separately
- The installation requires a significant amount of cutting and welding. While TIG welding is preferred, MIG welding may be a suitable option for frame repairs, while TIG welding is recommended for fresh builds with a bare frame. When repairing a frame, we recommend removing as much paint as possible using a wire wheel, with a grinder used only as a last resort, considering the factory frame's thin nature